We said goodbye to Wellington and set off to head back to
Auckland via Lake Taupo where we were stopping for the night. A quick diversion
to Lindale to buy some ice cream and see a bee hive and then we headed to Palmerston North
(145km).
John Cleese said of ‘Palmy’, as it is known, “If you wish to
kill yourself but lack the courage to, I think a visit to Palmerston North will
do the trick” after a performance there a few years back. The town responded by
naming the local dump after him. Our reason for visiting was that Palmy is home
to the NZ Rugby museum. The first ever game of rugby played in NZ was held in 1870
and organised by Charles Monro (a statue of him sits, or rather kicks, outside the main door).
The museum itself was basically a history of the All Blacks and didn’t shy away
from the protests against Saffa tours etc. On the way in I was asked if we had
a rugby museum in Ireland. “Yeah” says I, “it’s packed with mementoes of our
moral victories in the 5 & 6 Nations, Triple Crowns and World Cup Quarter
Finals” The interactive part of the
museum had a ‘test your scrum power’ machine. A 12 year-old Kiwi kid built like
a brick outhouse beat me...
After that we did the hard yards to Lake Taupo (242km). The
clouds descended and most of the trip was spent with about 20 meters
visibility. When the weather turns here it does it quick and nasty. Thankfully
we made it in one piece to ‘Cottage Mews Motel’ about 3km from the centre of
Taupo, and with a jacuzzi in every room. For dinner we decided to walk into town along the lake. Lake Taupo is
basically a live volcano full of water but it hasn’t erupted recently. As we
walked along the lake and evening fell we could see steam rising from the
water. Linds decided to stick her hand in to see if it was warm. “Just like a
bath” says she. “I have to go for a swim in that tomorrow”. We discussed how
the famous Lake Taupo trout could possibly live in water as warm as a bath but
there was no telling her (well, she is half Yorkshire). We passed a parked up camper van with ‘Irish and
Proud’ posters all over it and gave them a wave.
10 minutes later as the rain started to really belt down
they passed us and stopped to offer us a lift (I had my Ireland hat on). Our
conversation turned up the information that they had been in the van for six
weeks, were thoroughly miserable, and that they were two ladies from London. They
were puffing away on fags like there was no tomorrow. They dropped us off in
the middle of town. Not so much Thelma and Louise, more Selma and Patty. A nice Italian meal sat next to two Munster
boys and then a cab back finished the night off.

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